1. There is a thin piece of protective tempered glass on top of the actual LCD screen. You can use soft tissues and a lil spray of IPA to remove dust. If there is dried resin on the screen, you can carefully scrape it off with a razor, but be careful with that.

    There is a thin piece of protective tempered glass on top of the actual LCD screen.
    You can use soft tissues and a lil spray of IPA to remove dust. If there is dried resin on the screen, you can carefully scrape it off with a razor, but be careful with that.

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  2. For as little time as possible to get your prints cleaned of uncured resin. IPA can and does affect the final quality of your prints. Inner and outer parts of your 3D printed object can be significantly affected. If you keep your printed objects submerged in IPA for prolonged periods of time, damageRead more

    For as little time as possible to get your prints cleaned of uncured resin. IPA can and does affect the final quality of your prints. Inner and outer parts of your 3D printed object can be significantly affected. If you keep your printed objects submerged in IPA for prolonged periods of time, damage to your prints is usually unavoidable.

    You can find experiment and interesting article here – https://ameralabs.com/blog/can-ipa-cause-cracks-sla-3d-prints/

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  3. For experienced makers and professionals Simplify3D is probably best 3D slicer. Simplify3D is compatible with more 3D printers than any other 3D printer software. It has a user-friendly interface but also has features for editing and repairing complex 3D models. You can easily save settings in uniquRead more

    For experienced makers and professionals Simplify3D is probably best 3D slicer. Simplify3D is compatible with more 3D printers than any other 3D printer software. It has a user-friendly interface but also has features for editing and repairing complex 3D models. You can easily save settings in unique profiles. You can effectively customize your support thickness, material, and builds them so they can be removed extremely easily. Also, the quality of the documentation is very good. Sadly it is not free.

    Cura Slicer, I think, is best free 3D Slicer software. It is designed to be able to integrate with 3D CAD software tools like SolidWorks and Autodesk Inventor for an easier workflow. Most useful is process of the three stages of printing. The first stage, Prepare, allows you to choose your printing parameters and slice the 3D printer model. Preview stage allows you simulate the print to identify any areas which may fail. This is great as you can identify faults without having to waste time and materials. Monitor stage, where you can monitor print progress — including remotely.

    For resin printers ChiTuBox is one of best 3d slicers. ChiTuBox is free and powerful but simple to use and very useful 3D slicer software made for resin printers. The clean user interface makes it easy to understand, even for beginners. This free 3D software tool can edit 3D models, generate supports, and slice the print according to your needs. The slicing process is fast, it gives you control of your support structures.

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  4. Denatured alcohol or Acetone. Denatured alcohol is the best though. Better than even high 90s IPA.

    Denatured alcohol or Acetone. Denatured alcohol is the best though. Better than even high 90s IPA.

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  5. The recommended process is the two tub system. Fill both containers with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or other solvents such as 95% Ethanol. Also you can (but not necessary) heat the first tub to around 45°C helps dissolve the resin faster. Drop the print into the first tub and swirl for several secoRead more

    The recommended process is the two tub system. Fill both containers with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or other solvents such as 95% Ethanol. Also you can (but not necessary) heat the first tub to around 45°C helps dissolve the resin faster.
    Drop the print into the first tub and swirl for several seconds. Use a soft brush to reach parts, crevices, etc. Then dip the part in the second tub of solvent and rinse clean. Do not leave your prints soaking too long in the tubs. Remove then dry thoroughly (blow drying with compressed air works best) before UV curing.

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  6. Check the LCD settings in your slicer program. There should be a tab where you can select between LCD_mirror, DLP_normal or Normal. Please choose - LCD_mirror.

    Check the LCD settings in your slicer program. There should be a tab where you can select between LCD_mirror, DLP_normal or Normal. Please choose – LCD_mirror.

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  7. The less you remove the vat the less likely something will go wrong. I leave the resin in the vat unless I am changing resins. Quick stir with the spatula to make sure there's nothing in there, as well give the resin a quick mix.

    The less you remove the vat the less likely something will go wrong. I leave the resin in the vat unless I am changing resins. Quick stir with the spatula to make sure there’s nothing in there, as well give the resin a quick mix.

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  8. It can be due to incorrect exposure setting for your normal layers. Try to increase exposure time. You may need to increase support tip size and depth in your slicer settings. Also you can increase support density or to use medium and heavy supports. It can also be due to the orientation of your modRead more

    It can be due to incorrect exposure setting for your normal layers. Try to increase exposure time.
    You may need to increase support tip size and depth in your slicer settings.
    Also you can increase support density or to use medium and heavy supports.
    It can also be due to the orientation of your model. Try to angle your model and minimize large surface sections.
    If your model is large, then hollowing the model is essential.

    Very useful tips in this article:
    https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/

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  9. Probably it is a build plate leveling issue, make sure your leveling is 100% correct before attempting other solutions. Also you can try: - Check if Z=0? - There may be cured resin in your vat. - The FEP film may be too tight or too loose. Adjust to the correct tension, or replace. - Clean the buildRead more

    Probably it is a build plate leveling issue, make sure your leveling is 100% correct before attempting other solutions.
    Also you can try:
    – Check if Z=0?
    – There may be cured resin in your vat.
    – The FEP film may be too tight or too loose. Adjust to the correct tension, or replace.
    – Clean the build plate carefully with IPA or other solvents. Dry before use.
    – You may be using resin formulated for SLA laser or DLP printers. Try using a known resin.
    – Shake your resin in bottle well before using. Also stir resin in the vat.
    – Preheat the build plate, also the resin. You can use a hair dryer.
    – The build plate may have shifted, too high or too low. Try and level it again, make sure to tighten well.
    – The build plate may be defective. Check if the plate surface is flat.

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  10. You can leave your prints for as long as you need before removing and post processing.

    You can leave your prints for as long as you need before removing and post processing.

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